Bleaching Dark Hair: Avoid Orange & Get The Color You Want

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Hey guys, ever dreamt of going blonde or a lighter shade but have dark hair? Well, you're not alone! Bleaching dark hair is a common quest, but it can be a real rollercoaster. The biggest fear? That dreaded orange hue! Don't worry, though; we're going to break down exactly how to bleach your hair and avoid that brassy nightmare. We'll talk about everything from choosing the right products to the steps you need to take to get your hair to the color you want without causing too much damage.

Understanding the Basics of Hair Bleaching

Alright, before we dive into the nitty-gritty, let's get the basics down. Bleaching your hair is essentially removing the natural pigment. Your hair has melanin, and that's what gives it its color. There are two types: eumelanin (which gives you brown and black shades) and pheomelanin (responsible for red and yellow tones). When you bleach, you're breaking down these pigments. The process isn't a simple one, and it's super important to understand what you're up against.

Think of it like this: dark hair has a lot of pigment to get rid of. Lightening it to a super light blonde is like climbing a mountain with many layers. You're going to go through several stages, and each one will reveal a different undertone. These stages typically go from black to red, then red-orange, orange, yellow-orange, yellow, and finally, pale yellow or blonde. The whole goal is to reach that pale yellow stage, and sometimes it takes a few tries. It is very important to know and understand this process. This will also help you to know what product is best for you.

When you bleach, the bleach opens up the hair cuticle (the outermost layer) to get at the pigment inside. This is why your hair can feel dry and damaged after bleaching – you're essentially disrupting the natural structure. Using good quality products is very important in the long run and also follow instructions. This damage is manageable. This is why it's so important to take care of your hair before, during, and after the bleaching process.

Choosing the Right Bleach and Developer

Okay, so you're ready to bleach. First things first: choose your weapons! The products you pick can make or break your color journey. Bleach and developer are the dynamic duo of lightening hair, and they come in different strengths and formulas. Let's break it down.

  • Bleach: You can find bleach in powder, cream, or oil form. Powder bleach is the most common, and it's generally the strongest. Cream and oil bleaches are often gentler, which can be a great option if your hair is already somewhat damaged or if you want to minimize damage. But, of course, that depends on the result you want.
  • Developer: This is what activates the bleach. It comes in different volumes, typically 10, 20, 30, and 40. The higher the volume, the stronger the developer, and the faster it lifts the color. But, with great power comes great responsibility – or, in this case, potential damage. Using a higher volume developer can be tempting to get faster results, but it can also fry your hair, especially if it's dark or thick. So, consider it, depending on what you need.

As a general rule, start with a lower volume developer (20 vol) if you're only lifting a few levels or if your hair is already processed. If you have very dark hair, you might need a 30 vol. Avoid using a 40 vol unless absolutely necessary and always keep an eye on your hair during the process. Pay very close attention to it.

Important Tip: Always do a strand test before you bleach your whole head! This is the best way to see how your hair will react to the bleach and how long it will take to lift the color. This will help you to avoid a big mistake.

Pre-Bleaching Preparation: Setting the Stage

Alright, before you start mixing up your bleach, you need to prep your hair. Think of it as preparing your canvas before you start painting. You want to make sure your hair is in the best possible condition to handle the process.

  • Avoid Washing: Don't wash your hair for a day or two before bleaching. The natural oils on your scalp will help protect your hair during the process. This is very important because, in this case, you want the natural oils to stay there, at least until you're done with the bleaching process.
  • Deep Condition: Give your hair a deep conditioning treatment a few days before bleaching. This will help to hydrate and strengthen your hair, making it more resilient. If you condition your hair, your hair will be able to handle the whole process better, and the results will be amazing, but it depends on the products you use.
  • Protect Your Skin: Bleach can irritate your skin, so protect your hairline and ears by applying petroleum jelly or a thick moisturizer. Be very careful, and try to avoid touching your skin.
  • Gather Your Supplies: Make sure you have everything you need before you start. This includes bleach, developer, gloves, a mixing bowl, a tint brush, clips, and a timer. Also, have a towel to protect your clothes and a mirror where you can see the back of your head.

Doing these steps can make a massive difference in the final result, and it is essential to avoid mistakes and make sure that you are ready for the process, at least mentally. If you don't feel ready, don't do it.

The Bleaching Process: Step-by-Step Guide

Okay, you're prepped, you're ready, and it's time to get down to business! Here's a step-by-step guide to bleaching your dark hair and minimizing that orange hue:

  1. Mix the Bleach: In a non-metallic bowl, mix the bleach powder and developer according to the instructions on the packaging. Make sure it's a smooth, creamy consistency. Mixing the bleach properly will help you to get great results. If the consistency is not good, you will not get what you want. Pay close attention and read the instructions.
  2. Section Your Hair: Divide your hair into sections. This will help you apply the bleach evenly. Use clips to keep each section separate. You can part your hair in sections. This is essential for even application.
  3. Apply the Bleach: Start applying the bleach to the roots, then work your way down to the ends. For virgin hair, it's usually best to start at the roots, as they tend to lift faster. But if you have previously colored hair, you might need to apply the bleach to the darker areas first.
  4. Check the Progress: Regularly check your hair to see how the color is lifting. This is where the strand test comes in handy! You want to lift your hair to a pale yellow or the desired level. Don't leave the bleach on for too long, as this can damage your hair.
  5. Rinse Thoroughly: Once your hair has reached the desired level of lift, rinse the bleach out with cool water. Be sure to rinse, and rinse, and rinse again. Make sure the hair is not full of product, otherwise, it can cause a lot of issues.
  6. Tone Your Hair: After rinsing, apply a toner to neutralize any remaining brassiness. Toner helps to create a more even, natural-looking color. We will cover this step in more detail later.
  7. Deep Condition: Finish with a deep conditioning treatment to rehydrate your hair and restore its moisture. After the bleaching process, your hair will feel really dry. The deep condition will help you recover.

Dealing with Orange Hair: Toning and Beyond

So, what happens if you've done everything right, and you still end up with orange hair? Don't panic! The good news is that it's usually fixable. The key is toning.

  • Understanding Toner: Toner is a semi-permanent color that counteracts unwanted tones. For orange hair, you'll need a toner with a blue or violet base. Blue cancels out orange, and violet cancels out yellow.
  • Choosing the Right Toner: Look for toners labeled